Taiwanese movie director Te-Sheng Wei.

On Tuesday, January 24, 2012, the final Academy Award (屆奧斯卡) nominees were released out of Hollywood. Notably missing from the final five nominees for the Foreign Language Film category was Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale (賽德克‧巴萊). During the previous week, the movie’s director, Wei Te-Sheng (魏德聖), had high hopes of achieving official recognition on the movie industry’s most glamorous stage. That level of international recognition would have been a bonafide breakthrough for a Taiwanese film, although having a film that made it on the short list of 9 Academy Award nominees as the only representative in East Asia was an honor in itself.

Mr. Wei had already broken the benchmarks for the Taiwanese film industry, directing Cape No. 7 (海角七號) in 2008, a romantic comedy that became the highest-grossing Taiwanese film ever, earning over US $13,800,000 since its release. In 2009, Wei Te-Sheng began production on Seediq Bale, armed with the largest budget (US $25 million) in Taiwanese filmmaking history. The film, which screened in two parts, The Flag of Sun (太陽旗) and The Bridge of Rainbow (彩虹橋) in the Fall of 2011, did well in the Taiwanese box office, but has yet to break even financially. Despite the financial challenges of recovering its investment, the Seediq Bale team has been focused on efforts expand the value of the film. In November 2011, Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale won the 48th Golden Horse Award (金馬獎) for the Best Film category. The Golden Horse Awards are considered one of the top honors available to Chinese-language films. The release of the DVD is scheduled for March 2012, and will be instrumental in allowing the film to achieve profitability.

Because the market in Taiwan is limited in size, Mr. Wei and the Seediq Bale Team has turned their attention and efforts overseas, which has paid dividends in the form of reviews in the foreign media and a premier screening of the re-edited combined film, Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale, at the Venice Film Festival. This exposure in Europe led to distribution deals signed with Optimum Distribution in the UK and ICO/BAC in France. WellGo USA Entertainment has signed a deal for distribution in the United States, where there are limited theater screenings already organized for early 2012.

As a groundbreaker, Wei Te-Sheng has been traveling and working hard on promotional efforts, in order to ensure that the benchmarks for future Taiwanese films can continue to grow. In the process of ‘taking care of business’ for the film, Mr. Wei and his team continue to push the boundaries and increase the prestige of Taiwan’s film industry throughout the world. As for the Academy Awards, Wei Te-Sheng’s work fell short, but the expectations of his fans for future opportunities at the Oscars continue to rise.

A scene from Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale.

This morning, Tuesday, January 10, 2012, at 11:00 am local time, people in Tainan City, Taiwan, a city of 850,000 residents, witnessed a seemingly unnatural phenomenon over their city. The morning was lightly overcast, with a layer of high-altitude clouds blanketing the sky. Sometime between 10:15 am and 11:00 am local time, a large sphere materialized. More accurately, the clouds were vaporized, leaving a perfect spherical hole measuring at least 6 km in diameter. The sighting left many people wondering about its cause.

Was it a UFO? Was it the testing of a secret weapon resembling HAARP? (If so, be on alert for a serious earthquake soon.) Was it something naturally-occuring? The shape seemed too large and perfectly spherical to be natural. It appeared that the clouds were vaporized by some heat or energy source.

This strange sight over Tainan City attracted many curious onlookers.

With the heated political atmosphere during the Presidential election campaign in Taiwan, some perhaps speculated that aliens paid a special visit to Taiwan to give incumbent President Ma a visible, but non-interfering, endorsement that he could take credit for.

Perhaps, this was just a rare, but naturally-occuring fallstreak hole, but that wouldn’t seem as interesting.

Could this have been a fallstreak hole over Tainan?

We arrive at the Hsinchu HSR Station on Friday at 3:30 pm. New friends meet for the first time. (From left to right: Leo, Gary, Henry and Neal)

“This is like being young again,” exclaimed Neal, “like back when I was in summer camp.”

A group of my good friends and I are walking down the unlit street in Shoulan Village, nestled in a river valley between high mountains in Hsinchu County. My friends range in age from their late 30′s to their 50′s. Many are together for the first time, getting to know each other during this 1-day trip. My good friend Leo, our Taiwanese host, and his friends are leading the way into the darkness. Some of them have flashlights to light our path, while others follow, uncertain of our destination. On the main village road, we walk towards the river wearing our swim trunks, flip flops, slippers and sandals. The sounds of frogs, crickets and cicadas envelop us.

Our trip begins with a tour of the historic Hakka town of Neiwan. We enjoyed a personal account of the history of the area, which enjoyed significance as a logging town during the Japanese occupation.

I stare up into the clear night sky and marvel at the thousands of stars I can see. I thought I saw a shooting star fly across the sky. Neal’s words hit me, and I am overwhelmed by the feeling that I am a world away from my life back in Tainan, but not only that. Emotionally, I feel like I haven’t felt since I was a teenager. I feel light, carefree, and joyous, free to enjoy the experience and connection between the people I was with.

“I haven’t felt like this since I was a teenager!” I shout.

New friends stand in front of the historic Neiwan Theater.

Just a short while before, our group was really getting to know each other over a dinner of indigenous food over at Watan’s restaurant. After a tour of Neiwan, which is a historic Hakka town, and a long 90-minute drive on winding mountain roads, it was good to plant our feet on solid ground. We regained our sense of balance over dinner, and had lively conversations filled with laughter. Miss Hsu recognized Gary from TV commercials. Neal impressed the group with his singing talents that didn’t miss a beat since his days performing on Broadway. When Neal found a guitar, he started singing classic American songs, impressing us with his professional singing voice. My friend Gary also sang along, sharing his talents. The energy was high when dinner ended, and we walked to our dormitory to change into swimming clothes and to relax in a natural hot spring.

A stroll through the streets of Neiwan reveals that the entire town has been reinvented as a tourist attraction.

The walk to the river’s edge was somewhat perilous, especially when we had to walk over stones in the dark. Many times my slippers fell off, and I fell behind putting them on again, I was fortunate to have helpers (Miss Li and Miss Hsu) to carry my towel and light the way. Often they lent me a helping hand to climb up or down the rocks. Needing and accepting help, as I stumbled into the dark unknown only heightened the sense of youthful adventure.

We pose in front of the old Neiwan Police Station, which served the area about 100 years ago during Japanese occupation. A new police station will be built, and this one will be converted to a museum.

We located and settled into a small spring filled with warm water at around 10:00 pm. It was only knee-deep in places, and the bottom was a mixture of mud, sand and rock. We sat on large stones with our legs in the water, or sometimes we sat in the water. When we shined the flashlight into the water, we realized we weren’t imagining things when we felt our legs tickled by something.

“Leeches,” said Gary sarcastically.

“No, they’re tadpoles, ” said Neal.

Neal and Henry take photos of the views from Yulao Village at the top of the mountain.

So there we were, five men sitting in the hot spring, staring up into the starry sky. We talked over the sounds of the raging, cold river next to us, and the chirping crickets. Tadpoles nibbled on our toes. Each of us had a beer in hand, and a few friends standing beside us made sure our cups did not stay empty.

I am thoroughly enjoying 21 C (69 F) weather outside again at the end of July, while we enjoy a cup of hot tea.

“This reminds me of being out by a river or lake with friends during my college days,” I think out loud. I remember how during those days, my friends and I would share our personal thoughts and secrets with each other, so I asked each of my friends in the host spring to share their past experiences during their youth. It was a bonding experience haven’t had since my college days, and I never expected to have again as a mature adult, so I cherished every moment. I decided that this must be how tribal people feel when they are out together enjoying nature very often. I believe that the experience of adults letting down their walls and being intimate and vulnerable as friends is rare in the modern world and it strengthens bonds more than anything else can. It was a priceless experience.

“Best day ever,” yelled my friend Henry over and over.

It is Friday at 6:10 pm on the mountain top. We still have a 45-minute drive to Shoulan on the river far below.

After an hour in the water, we walked back to the dormitory relaxed and peaceful. We changed clothes, and gathered in the living room. When I got there, the table was set with drinks, dried squid, boneless chicken feet, peaches, bananas, and lychees. The karaoke machine and television were on. We sang until 1 am, singing familiar Taiwanese and English songs, and admiring each other’s singing abilities.

We arrive at Watan's indigenous restaurant in Shoulan around 7:00 pm, and dinner was already waiting. Our hosts and friends get to know each other better over food and drink.

That night I lay in bed with the windows open, and the mountain air gave me the opportunity to sleep with a blanket. I basked in the warmth of my experiences, and enjoyed getting familiar with feelings from a forgotten time. I couldn’t remember when I laughed so much and sang in harmony without inhibition. Even more important to me was knowing that I helped bring people together, which gave everyone something special to remember for their lifetimes.

Neal finds a guitar and starts singing, kicking up the energy a few notches.

After a night under the stars in the hot spring, we return to the dormitory to enjoy karaoke.

The dormitory that housed us in Shoulan and the black van that transported us.

On Saturday morning I returned to the same place where the night before we talked in the hot spring under the stars.

Our entire group poses in front of the Yulao Police Station on our way back to Hsinchu. (From left to right: Tony, Miss Li, Miss Hsu, Mr. Li, Mr. Jien, the local police officer, Gary, Leo Li, Neal, and Henry)

Yulao Village and Police Station are important stops for cyclists who visit the area from Hsinchu City. It is an impressive accomplishment to make it this far.

Our host from the area, Mr. Li (foreground), takes us on a 2 km hike up a mountain to build up our appetite for lunch.

We are taken to a famous fish farm/restaurant in the area for an unbelievable feast of local Hakka and indigenous cuisine. The owner of the restaurant shows us the proper technique to de-bone a fried fish.

Click for more photos from the experience.

Exploring the rocky coast near the Sansiantai Bridge.

You’re walking on a glittering beach, looking for seashells, while a lone surfer rides the waves in the distance. You see the tracks of giant sea turtles on the sand. Glancing towards the East, you are charmed by the deep hues of blue sea topped by clear, azure skies. The sound of tribal drum beats beckons you to gaze towards the west, where you see a group of indigenous people celebrating life on the beach, where they have been doing so for hundreds of years. Behind them is a backdrop of awe-inspiring mountains and cliff sides that provides a stark contrast to the sea.

No, you’re not on Fiji, Tahiti, or Hawaii. You are in East Asia’s last remaining paradise… Taitung.

Taitung Map

Taiwan map with Taitung highlighted.

Taitung County is located in the Southeast corner of the island. Because it is the least-populated county on the island, it is also the least-developed. This means that this area is the last place people can visit in Taiwan to experience nature flourishing in an unspoiled semi-tropical environment.

One of many beautiful beaches in Taitung County.

No one understands and appreciates the value that the natural environment brings to the area than the indigenous local population. Taitung is a melting pot of peoples from most of the 14 official indigenous tribes of Taiwan, and the indigenous peoples make up the majority of the area’s population. Leaders and activist in the area are currently leading efforts to block developments that are destroying the natural environment. The building projects, which are occurring without environmental impact studies, and in some cases, without proper building permits, have the real potential of destroying the rare coral reefs, local wildlife, and sea life, some species of which are found nowhere else in the world.

A peaceful protest rally at a hotel construction site on the beach near Dulan.

With the increase of tourists to the area from mainland China, the interest in development on the beaches has increased. The local people are not against development, because jobs are welcome. But what they want is for development to be done with their consultation, to ensure responsible planning and reduced environmental impact. They also don’t want people to be shut out of the beaches, which have been the community gathering places for the local tribes for hundreds of years.

An indigenous activist in front of the hotel construction site near Dulan.

Ideally, the local people would like their native homelands to be a haven for eco-tourism and cultural tourism, which the area is well-suited for. People throughout Taiwan, including all ethnic groups and foreigners have joined in peaceful rallies and demonstrations on the beach to attract attention to the cause. They want to save Taiwan’s last paradise, which is likely the last unspoiled paradise in all of Eastern Asia. Even more troubling, a planned dump site for nuclear waste in the southern part of the county near Daren is threatening the grandeur and future potential for Taitung.

The fountain at the front entrance of the Taiwan National Museum of Prehistory in Taitung City.

Aside from its natural assets, Taitung County has much cultural value to offer visitors. Taitung City is the capital city and the administrative center for the County. It is like other small cities in Taiwan, with schools, department stores, Starbucks, and night markets. There is a different local atmosphere that is colored by the many indigenous peoples in the area. You can find many restaurants selling indigenous cuisine and shops selling indigenous clothing and crafts. Located in Taitung City is Taiwan’s National Museum of Prehistory. In the museum, people can view ancient artifacts from tribal people who inhabited the island thousands of years ago. More importantly, visitors can discover and understand Taiwan’s cultural importance in the world and their link to the Austronesian cultures worldwide. Many people have moved to Taitung City to enjoy a healthier slow-paced lifestyle in a cleaner environment.

Many displays and dioramas in the National Prehistory Museum give visitors a glimpse into indigenous life in Taiwan, from ancient to modern.

Highway 11 is the main highway connecting Taitung City with the rest of the county north and south. Going south, the highway winds around curves on top of the mountainous cliffs along the sea. The views are gorgeous, and there are many kilometers of uninhabited beaches all the way to Daren in the south. The only civilization you will find along the 50 kilometers between Taitung City and Daren are a few lonely fishing villages.

Artists and musicians regularly hang out at the Dulan Sugar Factory, which was converted into a center for arts and music.

Driving north on Highway 11 from Taitung City, you will pass many natural and cultural attractions along the coast. One of the first attractions you will see is Shiauyeliou. It has some of the most interesting geological formations you will find in the world, coming from a combination of wind and water erosion.

The tofu rock formations at Shiauyeliou.

The mushroom rock formations at Shiauyeliou.

About 10 km north of Taitung City is the sleepy town of Dulan, in the Donghe Township. Dulan has a strong arts community, attracting artists and musicians to reside in an affordable and beautiful setting. Dulan is where tourists go to see Water Running Up, a walking path alongside a small stream that appears to be running uphill. You can also visit Dulan Site, an archaeological site with stone tombs dating to 3,000 years ago.

In Dulan, tourists visit a site where a stream appears to be flowing uphill.

Driving north on Highway 11 from Dulan, you will find Duli in the Chenggong Township. Visiting the East Coast National Scenic Area Administration there is worth your time. The office, and cultural center are nestled in beautiful parkland between the ocean and mountains. On the grounds of this park is the Amis Indigenous Cultural Arts Center, where visitors can visit traditional houses, and watch traditional performances of music and dance from the Amis tribe.

East Coast National Scenic Area Administration Center

The interior of a traditional Amis family house at the Amis Indigenous Culture Art Center

Further up the coast is Chenggong, a large town that is a notable fishing port. While in town, check out the fishing docks, especially after the boats return from sea with its harvest, and try the fresh, inexpensive seafood. Also, check out the National Aquarium, where you can see many varieties of clown fish, and the only giant white dragon moray eel in captivity.

The fishing port of Chenggong in Taitung County is known for its abundance of fresh fish.

Just north of Chenggong is another remarkable, must-see site, the bridge to Sanshiantai Island. The famous bridge, with 8 arches, is surrounded by a lush nature preserve. The walk through the preserve, alone, is worth the visit, but one can also enjoy the pebble beach, and after a long walk over the bridge, you can explore the uninhabited Sanshiantai Island.

The Sansiantai bridge

Children enjoy exploring the magical area around Sansiantai.

In the north end of Taitung County is the pleasant little town of Changbin. We found a surprisingly affordable air-conditioned hotel room with 4 beds, bathroom with a bath tub, a television and refrigerator for only NT1,200 (US$40) per night. After a good night’s sleep, we had the energy to explore new sites. We began by exploring the Basian Caves, just outside of Changbin. These natural caves are home to the Eight Immortals. In each of eight caves, visitors can see temples, with monks residing within. It is quite the hike up the cliffside to see all eight of the dieties in their caves.

One of the eight temples inside one of the Basian Caves.

It took four days to visit many of the interesting sites along the coast of Taitung County, and to fall in love with the area. There was so much that we didn’t see, but what we did gain was greater appreciation for Taiwan and we understood what the locals have been trying hard to protect.

To see more of the photos, you can visit the online photo galleries:

Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4

My relatives in Tsongtzi Village in Wulai are honored for Mother's Day.

Sunday, May 8, 2011 was the most amazing Mother’s Day I ever had the pleasure of experiencing, since my mother died in 1995.

Tsongtzi Village, where my great aunt Mei lives with her younger sister.

My wife drove me to Chiayi High Speed Rail Station, and I gave her a quick happy Mother’s Day wish, with a kiss and hug. I then told my three boys to be extra good for their mother on this day. I purchased one business class ticket to Taipei, just for a new experience, so I could write a comparative article. (See article on the Taiwan High Speed Rail Business Class) The ride to Taipei passed very quickly, and I arrived around 10 am.

The mother's at the Catholic church in Tsongtzi Village are honored by the minister.

I caught the Taipei MRT (subway) to Hsintien Station, and then a taxi cab (chee-chen-chuh in Mandarin) to Tzong-zi Village in Wulai District. I wanted to surprise my great aunt Mei, who recently returned to Taiwan for good from the USA. She wasn’t at home, so I went to the Catholic church nearby and found her and many of my relatives attending a special church service dedicated to honoring Mother’s Day.

Great Uncle Masagi Lin gives a stirring sermon in the native Atayal language.

It was really nice seeing my great aunt Mei standing in line with other mother’s arm-in-arm, and holding a bouquet of flowers. I was fortunate to share the beautiful moment. She was very surprised to see me, as was all of my relatives there. There were many, including a few who I hadn’t seen in 20 years. My great uncle Masagi Lin, still a respected elder in the village, took the microphone and gave a sermon in the native Atayal language. It almost moved me to tears hearing the magical language being spoken and echoing throughout the large room. I closed my eyes and imagined I was in Wulai during a distant time. He acknowledged my return to the minister, and gave me the microphone. I thanked everyone and gave all the women, including my deceased mother, a warm Mother’s Day blessing.

My Wulai relatives in front of the Catholic church.

When the service ended at noon, I greeted my relatives and everyone returned home for lunch. My great aunt Mei lived with her younger sister, which was a short walk away. I followed her home. She was leaving for a shopping trip with my uncle Henry and aunt Mei Lin, so I stayed with other relatives at the house. I was invited to stay for lunch made by one of my aunts that I did not see for 20 years. (Yummm!) Her two daughters were also there, and I took the opportunity to get to know them better. They were 6 and 7 years old when I last saw them, but they were now beautiful young women. After catching up on each other’s lives, they offered to drive me to Taipei to my film festival screening. I went by car with my aunt and two cousins to the Huashan Culture Park in downtown Taipei, arriving about 3:30 pm. I spent an hour introducing my relatives to Western cocktails and tiramisu in a little Italian place in the culture park. They left at around 5:00 pm. I used the time to write a speech for the opening of the film and for the Q & A session.

Great aunt Mei with my two cousins. I last saw them when they were 7 and 8 years old.

I returned to the site of the Urban Nomad Film Festival, a warehouse converted into a movie theater. I met festival founders Sean Scanlan and David Frazier, as well as some of their staff. They are a great group of people. At the front entrance of the movie house, there were two large bouquets of flowers sent by my friend Mr. Leo Li to wish me success. They were screening a film about Ai Wei-wei, and I passed the time by meeting people. Soon, Alice Takewatan and Li De-wei arrived. Both of them were instrumental in making my trip to Taiwan possible in 2005, when I traveled around Taiwan to film Voices In The Clouds. They prepared a table with traditional Atayal food and drink, generously provided by a good friend of theirs named I-na (ee-nah).

My aunt and two cousins in front of the film festival site.

I give my relatives a first taste of tiramisu.

Flowers from my friend Leo adorn the front entrance.

The Atayal traditional food and drink were generously provided by I-na.

I popped next door to Alley Cats to have their famous pizza for dessert, and waited for my friend Henry Liao, Weifan, and his wife. I saw a live cat at a booth making herself at home, and understood why the restaurant had its name. We caught up with each other, and I asked for Henry and Weifan’s help to take photos of the event. We returned to the theater and started mingling. I introduced my friends to whomever I could. Philip Diller arrived early. It was great to see him and Alice together. They both worked together in 2005 to make my film possible. Catherine Su arrived with her husband. She wrote a very nice article about Voices in the Clouds for the Taipei Times. I finally met David Reid, a well-known blogger who publishes David on Formosa. David wrote a nice article on the film as well. I met well-known author and democracy activist Professor Jerome Keating, who said he would like to work with me on his project. There were many nice people that I met, and I can’t remember all of their names.

Co-founder Sean Scanlan was always behind the scenes at the Urban Nomad Film Festival.

Voices in the Clouds was the closing film on the last day of the Urban Nomad Film Festival. We were quite proud of the acknowledgment. The film opened at 7:45 pm with a special ceremony with 4 people on stage. Alice and I shared a Paiwan dual wedding cup and David Frazier and Angelika Wang, the founder of TOFU, shared another cup. Alice made a statement and we all shared out millet wine together.

The drinking ritual opens the screening of our film.

I gave a speech about why I made the film, and how it really honored my mother and her culture. It was on Mother’s Day in 1995 that she passed away and wrote her last words to me, “I love you.” The film played to a packed audience of around 250 people.

Tony, Alice and Philip together again.

I sat next to Alice Takewatan and Philip Diller in the front row. Alice occasionally held my hand during the screening. It was emotional to watch scenes of my mother and of the trip that Alice was instrumental in making possible.

Members of the audience during the Q&A session.

After the film, I took to the stage once more, and presented thank-you gifts to I-na, Alice, and Philip Diller. I was very touched when Philip thanked me as someone who inspired him. The question and answer began with Gary Smoke thanking the ATAYAL organization for their donation to help a tribe in Western Washington State. When another man asked me if the Taiwanese government was doing enough for the preservation of the indigenous culture of Taiwan, I deferred the question to Alice. She took the microphone and said something that struck a chord in me. She said the government spent a billion NT dollars for cultural preservation efforts, and said that this film and Tony’s efforts accomplished something that the government has not been able to do… to touch people’s hearts. She also said the footage of the tattooed elders is an important documentation of Taiwanese cultural history. All of a sudden, I felt an increased sense of importance for the film and whatever my future may hold.

Breaking down the festival site also included putting the alcohol away.

After a lively Q&A session, the crowd slowly dispersed, but most stuck around to socialize and to enjoy the leftover beer and Jaegermeister. I tried Jaegermeister for the first time, and chatted with as many people as I could. The Urban Nomad crew worked diligently late into the night to break down the makeshift theatre in the warehouse. I left at about midnight, catching a cab to the Taipei Main Bus Station and catching a Ho-Shin bus to Madou.

I want to personally thank David Frazier and Sean Scanlan, the founders of the Urban Nomad Film Festival for honoring Voices in the Clouds as the closing film, and for providing the translators and great hospitality during the event.

The modern, sleek Taipei HSR bullet train pulls into Chiayi Station.

I have come to love the Taiwan High Speed Rail system since moving to Taiwan two years ago. It has redefined convenience to me, shortening a 5 hour trip on the highways of Taiwan, to a 1 and 1/2 hour journey in a quiet, comfortable setting. More importantly, it has allowed trips throughout the north and south Taiwan to become reasonable, efficient and less damaging to the environment.

The Standard Class seating in the Taiwan HSR Bullet Train.

I have always taken Standard Reserved Class, and it has always been nothing short of perfect. But on my latest trip to Taipei, I decided to take Business Class to experience for myself what the differences are.

On Sunday, May 8th, 2011, I took the train from Chiayi to Taipei to attend the Urban Nomad Film Festival. Instead of paying NT 1080 (US $36) for a Standard one-way ticket, I chose the Business Class ticket for NT 1455 (US $48). As I walked onto car #6, I noticed a difference immediately. Instead of 6 seats per row, there were 4 seats. The seats were larger, and also included a 110 volt electric outlet and a jack for music that was streaming on different channels. The aisle was carpeted, and there was a padded footrest.

Business Class seating is more spacious, with 4 seats per row.

The service in the Business Class car was better. An attractive attendant provided passengers with free coffee, muffin and a selection of daily newspapers. There was an extra pictorial magazine just for Business Class as well. It was a more relaxing experience, reading the paper to jazz music, and the trip seemed to pass much more quickly.

Free amenities are provided with the Business Class fare.

A skeleton of a married woman from 2,500 years ago.

One of the great aspects of living and working in Taiwan is discovering the unexpected, and during one of our weekend family trips near our home, we discovered a 2,500-year-old culture. It was yet another great opportunity for our children to learn firsthand, something unique and interesting.

The archaeological site in Nanke, Tainan County, Taiwan has been methodically uncovered, indexed and mapped.

While driving through one of the largest high-tech industrial parks in Asia, taking in the gleaming glass office buildings and cavernous assembly plants, we expected to see why Taiwan is the largest exporter of LCD technology in the world. But instead, we discovered an archaeological site where we could walk in the same footsteps that the indigenous people of Taiwan had left 2,500 years earlier.

The public was allowed to tour the site for 2 days only, and volunteers were on hand to educate visitors.

Apparently, while excavating an expansive lot for a new manufacturing complex, workers had to dig pretty deep, and uncovered shards of pottery and bones. Scholars were called in, and it was quickly determined by carbon dating and by studying the geology, that they had just begun to uncover an entire village that was 2,500 years old. This was an opportunity, not just to see artifacts, but to study an entire lifestyle of indigenous Taiwanese families during the Neolithic Age of Taiwan.

A large earthen vase that held the remains of a baby.

There are over 1,000 archaeological sites throughout the island of Taiwan, some of them dating as far back as 15,000 years. People in Taiwan can visit the National Museum of Prehistory in Taitung to understand the earliest history of Taiwan, but nothing could beat the immersive experience our children were about to have. As luck would have it, the archaeological site in Nanke was open to the public for only two days (March 19 & 26), before being closed for further excavation. The village and its contents were going to be moved to museums for permanent display.

Jaden discovers an ancient people recently unearthed in Taiwan.

As we walked down through the grounds, volunteers were stationed at different areas to educate us on different aspects of prehistoric life, and to make sure the artifacts were not disturbed. The first volunteer described the geology and topography of the site, explaining how the active geological forces of Taiwan pushed up the area, so that it wasn’t so deep and inaccessible. He also explained that what was found was a village between two streams in an area rich in food, not far from the coastline. The people lived on fish, shellfish, farming, and hunting native animals, like boar and deer. We inspected vases and bowls that once held grain for the villagers. We walked to an area where houses one stood built on top of wooden posts. We could see what the people ate at the village dump site, where they left shellfish, oysters, and animal bones.

Jaden watches as guides explain how to determine the sex of a human skeleton.

The most striking features available for our observation were the burial sites. We saw skeletons of adults, children, and even an infant. Pots filled with grain were buried next to the bodies to provide them food for the afterlife. The volunteer guides explained to us what we could learn about the people by studying the burial sites. In one site, we learned that a married woman was buried next to a baby. We learned she was likely married, because she was missing one of her canine teeth. In the indigenous cultures of Taiwan at the time, women chose who they were going to marry. Instead of giving a ring, they extracted (painfully) their canine tooth and gave it to the man they wanted to marry. Also buried in her gravesite was a weaving tool, so it was probable she was a skilled weaver in the village. It was amazing to learn how much could be ascertained about a people’s lifestyle 2,500 years ago, but it was all possible by paying attention to the details.

Children learn how cloth was made for clothing from the bark of trees.

After our quasi-guided tour of the site, we returned to an area where booths were set up to teach children (and curious adults) about prehistoric life in Taiwan. There were many interactive areas, where children were encourage to try the ancient tools and methods. My sons learned about what people ate, how clothes were made (from tree bark), and what tools were used. It was amazing how much the people could do when there was little technology available. In the shadows of a modern computer chip assembly plant, the archaeological site provided a stark contrast between the Taiwanese culture of then and now. Perhaps it was also a revelation that the ingenuity and resourcefulness of people on the island of Taiwan will always be timeless and ageless.

Jaden studies bones from the types of animals that were found at the archaeological site.

Click for the CNN iReport.

Here is a summary:

1) The Lunar New Year begins on the first day of the lunar calendar, which is different the the Roman calendar used by most of the world. Because it coincides with the moon cycles, the holiday falls on a different day each year, usually at the end of January or beginning of February.

2) There are 14 days of this holiday, beginning with the New Year’s Day and concluding with the Lantern Festivals. The days in between has some significance and different customs. The students and businesses usually get a week or two weeks off.

3) Some of the customs of Lunar New Year trace their origins thousands of years to a folk tale of a monster named “Nien.” He terrorized villages, eating livestock and people. An old, wise man saved the day when he discovered that Nien was afraid of loud noises and the color red. Since then, people have pasted red on their homes, and set off firecrackers.

4) Before the Lunar New Year’s Day, people work tirelessly to clean their homes, sweeping out all of the bad luck of the prior year. People also go shopping for new clothes, and food for the reunion feasts.

5) On Lunar New Year’s Eve, the family joins together for a “Reunion” Feast. There is much significance and meanings behind the many foods they eat during this meal. They sit around a round table, with the circle symbolizing “eternal wholeness.” They catch up on the lives of the relatives, many of whom they haven’t seen for a year. Family bonds are strengthened by these annual gatherings.

6) Children stay up as late as they can after midnight Lunar New Year’s Day as a tradition to bless their parents with long life. The later they can stay up, the longer their parents will live.

7) The elder members of the family give red envelopes with money inside to bless the children and young family members who can not yet earn an income. The children often sleep with the red envelopes under their pillows to become blessed for the year. They often have to return most, if not all, of the money to their own parents to save it for them, and to pay for school expenses.

8 ) On the first day of the new year, families often go to the temples to pray for good luck and to honor their ancestors. Many temples have races, giving prizes to people who are the first to place a lighted incense stick into the main urn. It is often a dangerous custom, with many people running, shoving and pushing to be first.

9) On the second day of the new year, married women return to their own parents’ homes to have a family reunion. There is more feasting and bonding.

10) The few days after this, many families take advantage of the time off to go on short vacations. It is usually the busiest and most expensive time to travel in Asia.

11) On the 14th day of the new year, the Lantern Festival takes center stage. There are many beautiful lanterns on display in Taiwan, and the national festival this year was held in Miaoli. Also, during this time, people can write blessings on sky lanterns, and let them drift up into the night sky to reach the heavens. It is a beautiful site to see hundreds or thousands of these shining lanterns floats gently into the sky.

At Kang Ming Senior High in Sigang, Tainan, Taiwan, students competed in an English Essay Contest on Lunar New Year to share their experiences with the rest of the world. The top essay was written by Erica in 11th grade.

Erica was the first prize winner of the Lunar New Year English Essay Contest.

This is her essay:

When a foreigner walks down the street during Lunar New Year, they witness people celebrating and truly satisfied because of the “Lunar New Year” holiday. They may hear the firecrackers and see the couplets on the walls, but what they might not comprehend is the true spirit that lies behind these material things and why Lunar New Year is important to me and all Taiwanese people.

Foreigners see the couplets without understanding them. The written words are not only auspicious, but also have rhetorical flavor. One particular thing about couplets is that some single letters are put upside-down. The word “upside-down” has similar pronunciation as “coming here” in Chinese. Thus, couplets represent good fortune is going to “come here.”
The giving of red envelopes is another distinguished tradition. The fiery red envelopes with perfumed fragrances generate smiling faces on every child. Red envelopes are given out to children by elders in the family, as a token of good luck for the new year.

Everyone, regardless of where they are, returns home. It is a time I can avoid stress and enjoy the harmonious atmosphere. My family and I always gather together for a dinner on New Year Eve. The centerpiece of the dinner is usually a hot pot. We take our seats around the Chinese round table, and share something intriguing stories along with wishes for the new year. It gives me power to work harder the upcoming year. To me, it is a time I can regain a balance between schoolwork and leisure. Every one feels warm not only because of the simmering soup in the hot pot, but also out of the concern of the whole family.

The Lunar New Year marks a conclusion of one year, and gives us a fresh start. My parents always tell me to introspect over the last year. It is an opportunity to abandon our bad habits and turn over a new leaf.

I still remember my grandfather telling me, “Taiwan used to be an agricultural society, and everything is provided by the land. Lunar New Year is a chance to show your gratitude, and the spirit of nation is passed down through this holiday. You must bear in mind and embrace these virtues even in the modern times.”

After hearing this, Lunar New Year became even more significant to me. It holds for me my wishes, family expectations, and the inheritance of culture.

“Lunar New Year”, with all of its wonderful tradition, helps us remember the past while anticipating the future. It ushers me, and all of Taiwan together, into a brand new year with all these cherished customs and hopes.

You can read the essays from more students and learn from individual experiences and customs.

Click for student essays from 10th graders at Kang Ming Senior High in Taiwan.

Click for student essays from 11th graders at Kang Ming Senior High in Taiwan.

A mother and baby macaque sit on a trailside fence on Mt. Wushan.

I had a day to take my two oldest boys anywhere we wanted to go, while their mother and little brother went to attend a school reunion. It was during Lunar New Year week, so there was no school, and I didn’t have to work. So I chose to give the boys an adventurous day trip that they would remember. I chose to take them on the motor scooter to the Wushan Macaque Nature Preserve just east of Nanhua, Tainan County, Taiwan. Mountains and monkeys are always an adventurous mix, including the thrills of close contact with wild, unpredictable animals, the rigors of mountain hiking, and breathtaking views. What’s amazing is that such a location exists just 30 kilometers east of the major municipality of Tainan, Taiwan (pop. 1.87 million).

Close-up view of the travel route used in Tainan Municipality.

A map showing the area of Taiwan where we travelled.

We started our trip at 10:50 AM from our home in Sigang Township and motored east on a leisurely pace, stopping for photos along the way. I drive a 150cc Yamaha scooter, and drove at a 60 kph pace. We chose the most direct route, along Hwy 178, Hwy 20, Hwy 20E, and up the mountain road on Mt. Wushan. The drive took only a little more than an hour, but it could have much faster, had we not stopped several times along the way. I also spent NT85 (US$2.75) to fill up my gas tank, and the entire trip consumed about half a tank. I will let the photos describe our trip for me:

(Map Location 1) 11:05 AM: We stop at a temple in the town of Anding, where Hwy 178 begins.

(Map Location 2) 11:10 AM: Before we leave the town of Anding, we stop at a field of colorful wildflowers next to Hwy 178.

(Map Location 3) 11:15 AM: Hwy 178 goes through the middle of the bustling town of Shanhua.

(Map Location 4) 11:20 AM: Hwy 178 goes through the sleepy town of Shanshang before it ends at Hwy 20. The town is famous for pineapples.

(Map Location 5) 11:45 AM: Hwy 20 is a beautiful drive through the foothills. We stop at the crossroads of Hwy 20 and Hwy 20E to buy a fresh charcoal-roasted chicken at a roadside stand. It was REALLY fresh.

(Map Location 6) 12:05 PM: We stopped to eat our lunch at Nanhua, and it was delicious. It was also minding its own business an hour earlier with its clucking siblings.

(Map Location 6) 12:07 PM: Xander enjoys an entire chicken leg with his milk tea.

(Map Location 6) 12:07 PM: Johan enjoys a leg, wing, and thigh with his milk tea.

(Map Location 6) 12:08 PM We enjoyed our lunch at a stone table in the town of Nanhua. The table overlooked a beautiful view of Mt. Wushan. This photo captured some of the decorations next to our table.

(Map Location 7) 12:52 PM: As we ascend Mt. Wushan, we stop by an interesting temple. It's symbol is a nursing mother.

(Map Location 7) 12:54 PM: The boys play on the horse statues in front of a temple entrance. While parents prayed, other children also played on the horses as well.

(Map Location 7) 12:55 PM: The Nursing Mother Temple sits halfway up Mt. Wushan.

(Map Location #8) 1:00 PM: Approaching Zi Zhu Shi Temple near our destination at the top of Mt. Wushan.

(Map Location #8) 1:04 PM: Looking back at the Zi Zhu Shi Temple and the large Buddha statue from the rooftop plaza.

(Map Location #8) 1:05 PM: From the Zi Zhu Shi Temple we could see Nanhua, and Tainan City in the far horizon.

(Map Location #8) 1:15 PM: The road sign marks our destination: The Wushan Macaque Nature Reserve.

(Map Location #8) 1:17 PM: The crowds were heavy at the Macaque Reserve during Lunar New Year holiday.

(Map Location #8) 1:18 PM: We walk up to the parking lot of the visitor center/restaurant and see our first monkeys.

(Map Location #8) 1:19 PM: A tourist gives our boys a few peanuts to share.

(Map Location #8) 1:30 PM: The noisy tourists bring food, cameras, and their curiosity to the mountain hiking trails. Today the monkeys have more food than they know what to do with.

(Map Location #8) 1:35 PM: I buy two buckets of bananas and peanuts for the boys, and we try to find less crowded areas to feed the monkeys.

(Map Location #8) 1:40 PM: This protective Macaque seemed like an Alpha male, and he was quite vocal if people ventured too near.

(Map Location #8) 1:43 PM: Some monkeys were more assertive, or even aggressive, than others, as Johan discovered for himself. There were many personalities on view.

(Map Location #8) 1:52 PM: Many macaques preferred to keep their distance from the trail, hoping the visitors would throw the food to them.

(Map Location #8) 1:54 PM: We found a pair of large adult monkeys who guarded a large group of families. They were quite friendly.

(Map Location #8) 1:56 PM: The male macaque was quite friendly, until my camera lens got too close to his face.

(Map Location #8) 1:57 PM: This pair let me be very close, just inches from their faces.

(Map Location #8) 1:58 PM: We were fortunate to have a large part of the trail near the restroom all to ourselves, spending a lot of time getting to know our primate relatives.

(Map Location #8) 2:20 PM: The main trail ended, and we continued to explore much smaller trails that no other tourists felt safe to walk on. There weren't many monkeys further up.

(Map Location #8) 2:22 PM: Part of the smaller mountain trail required holding onto a rope to traverse.

(Map Location #8) 2:30 PM: After returning our buckets with food still in them, we decided to stop at a mountainside coffee shop before returning home.

(Map Location #8) 2:35 PM: We find a table at the edge of the patio next to a pair of binoculars for rent. The kids could view the vista below for NT10 for 2 minutes.

(Map Location #8) 2:45 PM: Xander thinks life is good, as he enjoys a refreshing fruit drink.

(Map Location #8) 2:46 PM: Johan kicks his feet up and enjoys the moment. After our drinks, we drive home and return home at 5:15 PM.

Fireworks above the Tainan City Hall complex.

The Municipality of Tainan, Taiwan rang in the New Year in style Friday night to mark a significant event in the region’s history. Tainan City and Tainan County recently merged as one, and is now known as Tainan Municipality, a sprawling city of 1.87 million people. On December 25th, 2010, the former legislator, Lai Ching-te, took office as the first mayor of the new municipality. One of his first major public appearances was to ring in the New Year, as the Municipal government hosted the 2011 New Year’s Eve Festival.

Mayor Ching-te Lai rings in the New Year and significant changes to Tainan.

The festival featured a free, public concert on the City Hall grounds that was well-attended. Tainan citizens came to be entertained by well-known performers from Taiwan and other parts of the world. The performance roster, included Olivia Ong from Singapore, and Anthony Neely, a popular Taiwanese-American singer, and Dong Cheng Wei, a Taiwanese rock band.

Taiwanese-American singer Anthony Neely sparkled on stage for his adoring fans.

On the cold, crisp Winter night, the music from a variety of bands energized the thousands of people in the crowd, with pop music, rock music, American songs, and even traditional Taiwanese songs. Mayor Lai gave a rousing welcome speech to his citizens standing on stage with his staff and celebrities, kicking off a new year that, with the merging of governments, is certain to be groundbreaking for the people of Tainan.

Click to read this story on CNN iReport.

Olivia Ong of Singapore charms the audience with songs in English and Chinese..

Dong Cheng Wei rocked the house.

The crowds packed the concert.